BMWMCCWA

First and foremost, again kudos to Digger for the trip planning / navigation / guidance / great bush campsite, what can I say... 'Brilliant'. Can't wait for the epic 'cos it's at least 4 trips in one.

7.00 am Saturday morning and I'm off to Ginger's Roadhouse. Brain fart! Where's Gingers? Back to home to the phone book. Lot numbers don't show on the GPS!
Start the computer, google gingers, see map, ahhh, I'm on the road at last and late
Big group of riders at Ginger''s all listening to Digger handing out the rules and regs, bugger missed most of that...

Finally on the road, big group of 15, could make it interesting. Dressed for the rain, and as always, no rain to speak of and soon overheating in the rain suit...

Stopped somewhere up the highway to photograph the regional spectacle, beginning of the wildflowers, green fields and a lake! A lake you may well ask? An enormous salt lake that is covered in water, almost makes one think one is in the wrong country. That water won't be there for long... bit of sun and it'll be all over.



Bill and Chris stop to take a photo of me taking a photo of the spectacle Onya Bill...



Before you know it we've left the tar behind, thankfully the dirt has been watered (rained on) and there is no dust. Can you imagine? 15 bikes! I'm sure we'll find out soon enough. After a short scene setting sojourn up a farm road, the trail finally petering out then doing an about face and waving at the farm house again on the way out

I'm sure Bill is having an interesting time with a Tourance on the front of his GSA

On track again, and with the dust laid we all make good time via Mullewa to the first overnight camp about 100km up the Mullewa -Carnarvon road. Tents are set, Helinox chairs positioned, tucker in bowls, a refreshing whiskey in hand and a campfire warming our tortured bodies, well not really, not yet anyway, shaken yes, but I'm just setting the scene. Not many late night stay-ups here. Too much excitement from that last 100 kms or so of corrugated loose windrowed dry dusty dirt road with the threat of more to come... and it does, so we had better get used to it or... Well Bill and Chris did. Again, not surprised with a Tourance on the front. Bloody brave making it thus far



A spectacular sunset prevails... get used to it, you're going to hear that word a lot, spectacular, spectacular. This blazing scene is one of the many reasons I love this country of ours so much





Sunday morning, up early and on the track, corrugated loose windrowed dry dusty dirt road continues, I have a couple of big tank slapper, near high-sides and stop to crank up that steering damper to steady the big baby down. Thankfully this works to control the front-end. My heart can re-start again

And wouldn't you know it, we strike bitumen!!!! How long can this last I ponder... all the way to the Murchison Roadhouse plus 1km. Unbelievable Fuel up here, bike and body, even tuck away a coffee. Very hospitable lot there, recommend a stay-over. Apparently 150 parties did the weekend before for an Astro Viewing event. Our planet passing through the tail of a comet creating the Perseid meteor shower, apparently. Understandable location considering the crystal clear night skies found out in the remote Murchison. http://meteorshowersonline.com/perseids.html

Somewhere along the way we stop at the infamous Murchison River bridge for an obligatory photo stop. I wander around snapping madly.







Shane shoots me, ta mate...



We notice the military sunbaking in the background.



Suddenly I'm last again? Thankfully Shane is a patient sweep

On to the Tathire Creek crossing, surprisingly there is still water flowing over the floodway. Another obligatory photo stop. Phil passed without making waves, thanks mate



Hey, it's my ride report, there should be a photo or two of me You know that Dianese jacket I'm wearing is nigh on 20 years old. Good gear that...



So from here it starts getting serious. We are venturing into very remote areas now. A rest break is called to re-group the group. Did I mention 'DUST'! Time for a drink in the shade under the corner sign. Mt Augustus this way ---> 206 kms



Murchison Settlement 192 km behind us and 390 km back to Mullewa.



Wildflowers starting to pop their little heads up. Country is very dry. They get about 200mm of rain up here, sounds good enough, but it's all in a day or two. Hence the myriad floodways in any condition you would care to name.




Jamie sets off unexpectedly on his DR. I quickly gear up, catch up and overtake him in double quick time. The country is getting very interesting. It's deadly out here and beautiful at the same time. As I approach a Gnamma Hole, a bloody great dust cloud bears down on me. Bloody great road train I stop at the Gnamma Hole and wait out the dust and for the someone to catch up... No one does



What's a Gnamma Hole I hear you ask? Firstly it supports wildflowers ergo there must be water





Warned you that there would be photos of me. Here is the biennial silly photo of me and wildflowers.



On the dusty trail again, better to call it powder trail, any movement lifts the dust into the air, like travelling through water, only it's dry. Again for the 100th time, I think, "Glad I'm not walking". Finally make it to the Mt Augustus turn-off, and there's John on his 800 GS.We briefly touch base and get back to the track to Mt Augustus. After many kilometres of dusty powdery tracks, I catch my first sight of Mt Augustus. Note the corrugated powder track



Here's a view of Mt Augustus from the other side. How I got to the other side is another story...



So arriving at the Mt Augustus Oasis, it's really the only way to describe it, green on red, water, caravan park, store, fuel, showers, what more could a dry thirsty rider want, ahh yes, and cold beer



Fueling up is a story by itself. The bowser is broken in that it can bowse, but not measure. So unleaded goes into a 20 litre plastic drum, Nev standing on a milk crate and pouring delicately hoping to get petrol inside the tank, Chris holds the short funnel, John does the photo shoot, both of them taking the piss hoping to see a GSA in flames no doubt Well, somehow petrol was poured, none was spilled. I'm telling you my arms and back were aching. It was a slow pour, at $2 a litre I wasn't spilling any. The three bikes have their thirst slackened, now it's our turn The lady takes us to the shop to pay. Three at a time is enough she says. A bar with beer is in the next room. We inquire and are asked to be patient, pay for petrol first, then do the beer. Ah the beer One follows another... The group has arrived. Discussion prevails about staying here. $11 seems reasonable considering the remoteness of the location. No! it's wild bush camp tonight per the plan. Somehow John, Phil, and I have to re-focus through our beer glasses. Then out of the blue, one of the GS's has a flat rear tyre. Can you believe it looks like a Tourance? Out here. That's brave. Must have been a little slippery. Can it be fixed? A tubeless plug is fitted and thankfully it eventually inflates to a good pressure and holds. So the decision is made to go 20km to 40km out the road to Paraburdoo. Jamie again darts off. Again, I follow. It's about a kilometre out to the road. A bloody big dust bearing cloud enters the short road to Mt Augustus Tourist Park. I stop as I cannot see a bloody thing. Dust settles and Jamie has disappeared. So I'm off. At the intersection, I turn right, as we came from the left, and he wouldn't go back the way we came, well would he... So that's how I got to the other side of Mt Augustus. I normally catch Jamie quite quickly. I couldn't see anything as the sun was in my eyes. It was after 4pm and I was heading west. One must pay attention to the track. Don't want to go down... Anyhow some distance past Cobra Station, I'm thinking "Normally I would have passed Jamie 3 times in this distance"... So I'm starting to get worried, as the sun is too low by now and I'm 45 km out. So I turn around expecting to run into the others coming my way. No one, light is failing, there is stock, roos and goats abound. Starting to get scary as it's difficult to ride slow on the corrugated track. Finally back to Mt Augustus and it's getting close to dusk. The group has gone!!!??? I'm on my own. No one at Mt Augustus seems to know where they went. I've burnt 100 km of fuel and need to fill prior to going out again. Petrol opens again at 8 am on Monday morning. Guess that means I'm staying. Pay my $11, through down my camp bed and sleep under the ground sheet to get as early a start as I can given that fuel is available at 8.

The local tourists are incredibly hospitable. The lone KTM rider offers ice for my single can of beer. Another couple from NSW beckon me to join them for dinner ???? Tom from England offers more beer and I'm settled in for the night

At sunrise, I take out the camera, but cannot do the scenery justice...



So after fueling up again, and discovering the circuitous route to the Pingandy Road to Paraburdoo, I'm off hoping to catch the group. The first third of the 300 km of Pilbara remoteness I have to traverse is mostly a narrow windy 2-wheel track. It is full of wash-outs and floodways. Crests mostly have turns on the other side. Treacherous and absolutely beautiful country. Probably the best off road riding through some of the most scenic country I've done in a long time. It could be described as the Austrian Alps without bitumen, greenery or other road users. Superb riding enjoyment. Digger put together a great plan getting us here.







Many invisible wash-outs in almost white dusty sand later, I thinking that Chris' idea of yellow sunglasses was not a bad idea to make out track detail in bright sunlight. I bottom out the suspension a few times and manage to stay upright. Had one massive tank-slapper. With the steering damper as tight as I had it, I was thrown into the air still firmly gripping the handlebars still pointing straight ahead, the rear flapping around a few too many times, then magically all was ok. Either I'm getting better or the steering damper is worth it's weight in gold.

Make it safely to the turn-off to the Ashburton Downs Road. Relieved but absolutely enjoying the riding.

I've gotta take my hat off to BMW. This R1200 GSA is a fantastic performer given it's weight and size, combined with the load. Just get on the gas, stand up and enjoy

So onwards, occasionally pulling off the right side of track to stay out of the dust cloud of Casey Australia tour coaches.

And would you believe it, I catch up to my group!!!!!!!!!!

Sidling up alongside Shane the sweep, acknowledging this momentous occasion (for me anyway), I move on. Suddenly I'm passing the Happy Bike nipping along at 85 km/hr

And then Jamie getting towed Not good. Then the Happy Bike overtakes Jamie and the tow bike. So I follow him. Overtaking the Happy Bike, I go through the Ashburton Downs station and cross the Ashburton River.



It's steep going down to the crossing, so I think that this will make a good photo opportunity So I park off the track, get out the water, a snack and the camera and wait. It's getting hot, but I'm in the shade, still hot, 28 degrees... No one comes? Finally after about half an hour the Happy Bike comes through... Finally they are here.



Shane on the HP2 comes through and another DR.





Then nothing??? Where are the others???

So I wait another 20 minutes and think that catching up to Shane and Happy is a good plan. So I pack and get on it. And wouldn't you know it, no sign of them?????

So I finally make it to the Paraburdoo Road, bitumen now. I need fuel so I leg it to Paraburdoo...

More to come later...

nev out...

Nev, You are a Legend mate. What a terrific and informative ride report and absolutely stunning photography, Made me feel as if I was riding with you and experiencing all the high's and low's.

Congratulations and I am avidly waiting for Chapter Two

Swampy

PS: Just for a laugh..............When I was at Mt. Augustas 2 years back the owner told me some City type tourist dope asked him one morning if the "West Australian" newspaper had arrived yet?

Great stuff Nev like Swampy says, like riding along with you. Have been watching Robbos spot track, he made Newman today

Great report Nev

Like Swampy, I feel like I was there on the ride, looking forward to part 2.

Any chance of writing my Flinders report for me?

Great report Nev, thank you for taking the time.

Ok, here we go again...

Made it to Paraburdoo. Probably a good time to talk about water or more importantly hydration...

We all know exactly what I'm talking about. Sure, drink water... But how do you know? I'm roaming around the IGA making no sense of anything. So I go back outside to the bike and have a quick drink, lay down and go to sleep in the shade. Don't know how long for, but 2 kids woke me with "Hey mister, are you dead". This shook me awake. Thanks to those kids for bring me out of that sleep. Best move on before that policeman emptying his bin across the road decides to be interested. No accommodation in Paraburdoo! So it's fill the tank at stupid Paraburdoo prices. It was $42 for a steak n' salad at the local restaurant according to the servo assistant.

Now my quandary. Where to from here. I've got no idea where the others have gone. I do know they are in Karijini wild bush camping. Karijini is a big place. So I figure if I can get to Newman before dark I'll be at least 3 hours in front of them by the time I get to Nullagine in the morning. So that's the plan. I'm now legging it to Newman riding past Karijini. I can't be missing much as, for example, going to Mt Augustus was riding past, getting fuel and moving on. Not much of an experience from a 'seeing-it' point of view. So Newman it is. 300 plus kilometres. Great scenery, punctuated with dusty mine sites with blazing white lights. Rode over that last mountain to the valley that contains Mt Newman to a sight to behold at dusk. The whole valley was filled with dust. This can't be great.

Got to Newman just after dark. Found accommodation in the first park I came across, the one behind the servo... The Whaleback Village. What an experience that was. $95 for a donga with minimum everything, remote facilities block, red dust everywhere. I was assured of the security of the place re my bike being in the open. Needless to say that I was a little concerned, considering the number of young indigenous kids sky-larking in the shower block. I don't really care who they are, where the hell were their parents? I remember in a different life, kids used to shit in the showers! My expectations were very low. No one seemed interested in complaining about this unruly raucous behavior, like it was the norm... However it seemed to be ok. In front of my donga was a table. On the table was a full bottle of bourbon whiskey. Remarkably it was still there in the morning! At least the mobile phone reception was great, so I could ring home and report in.

After a reasonably good night's sleep, only broken by 4wd's arriving at all hours, trucks coming and going, and of course, the early shift starting up, the dreaded reversing beepers. The whole of Newman must have been driving backwards

Here's where I talk about water again. Because it was about 100 metres to the toilet block, and I generally need to make that trip two or three times a night, I needed options otherwise I would be exhausted from the marathon by morning. So out comes a 1.5 litre clear plastic water bottle. I'll do the business in the bottle In the morning, it contains less than half a litre of dark brown liquid. That can't be good I'm thinking. This next day, I drink constantly, about 4 litres went inside my dry sack of bones. The following morning, I had almost filled the plastic bottle with clear fluid, and I'm feeling good. It's clear to me now that drinking water is very important. Dehydration can lead to poor decision making or worse... Message to self: Drink more water.

So after napping as long as I could, I rang the cheese-and-kisses to let her know that I was on the way to Carawine Gorge and would be out of phone reception for at least a couple of days. The teacher in my life then went to work. After packing my bike and doing the usual walk around prior to taking off on a big one, I notice that my rear disc brake caliper had taken a big hit and a chunk of it was broken off. The brake line fitting also showed signs of being hit. The offending item was the tool box from the club group buy from http://www.dsbikeprotection.com/. See details here: http://forum.bmwmccwa.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1169. It was supposed to be especially designed for the R1200 GSA. Obviously not fit for purpose as when the suspension bottoms out, the brake caliper collides with the tool box. It's now that I seem to recall Digger mentioning that his tool box smashed off his brake bleeder screw. Should have made a bigger thing of that. It's also obvious that most of us do not work our GS's to the limit very often, otherwise it would have been reported more often









So now it's decision time, considering what lay ahead, (ie Skull Springs Road), do I take a punt and risk further damage or worse, no rear brakes. Still thinking Nullagine, so I go to fuel up at the servo. In the midst of re-fueling, a familiar bike goes by heading south. Is that a DR packed the hilt? Is that Jamie? No rush, I'll catch him pretty quickly. Looks like he is heading for home. So that's it, I'm heading for home with possibly Jamie for company. It's 9.45am and I'm off to Perth from Newman.

Also sent an SMS to Digger to let him know that I was safe. Who knows when he would get it. Phone reception is pretty hit and miss around these parts.

And wouldn't you know it, I get to Kumarina Roadhouse and no DR or Jamie??

That's it, focus, wind on the gas, sip water and go. South of Meekatharra, there was a car that had hit two cows. All three, car and cows were dead. So at around 5 pm, I make the 750 kms to Paynes Find and decide to stay, as it's 400 kms to home. The amount of stock, sheep, goats and roos I saw was enough to prevent any irrational thoughts about night riding.

$60 for a single donga, $25 for a huge plate of double pork chops and vegies and a couple of beers. Feeling pretty good. I notice the TV is on in the pub, so I spend 20 minutes swallowing the constant stream of negativity spewing from the box and decide that the world would be a more positive place without it. Sleep comes easily. 7.00 am and 4 degrees, I'm out on the road, 200 km by 9.00 am. Stopped at New Norcia, freezing by now, for a hot coffee and that tantalizing 'toastie' that I had there back in June. Yes, you guessed it, the coffee machine had just broken down and they hadn't got fresh bread yet, some problem, blah, blah, blah...

I must comment that the condition of the Great Northern Highway from Newman to about Dalwallinu is superb, wide and smooth. Sadly from there to Perth, it is third world. This is an appalling state of affairs as it is one of our major transport routes. Main Roads really needs to lift their game. I'm betting this section is where a lot of road trauma occurs.

So back home by 12.30. Warm and sunny, crack a can of coke and top it up with whiskey to celebrate a great trip.

3,500 kilometres of pure riding pleasure.



Fantastic experience, would go back to Mt Augustus and the Pingandy Road in a heartbeat. Would love to spend 2 days at Mt Augustus, great spot. The Murchison Settlement was pretty enticing as well. This is really remote Western Australia at it's best. Full of friendly folks and no $%#@ mines.

Digger, tip my lid to ya

Thanks to all my riding buddies for sharing another great Western Australian experience, gratuitous plug for Tourism WA.

Thanks Gents for your encouraging words

Some say don't encourage him...

Cookie, I couldn't possibly write your Flinders report without experiencing the ride

See you all at brekky on Sunday, raining I'm lead to believe, by our Weather Bureau roll of the dice...

Well done Nev. I might reconsider the tool box after you and Steve now have had problems bottoming out. Seems hard to imagine that the suspension moves that much but obviously it does. Did you ever find the other guys? Robbo's spot had him in Newman today? (Thurs) you must have passed each other somewhere.
Anyway glad you made it. Might call for a celebratory drink this w/e

I could happily drink all weekend. The traffic here is 'orrible.
We need to work on a group solution about this tool box. At the very least warn the rest of the world...
I was home on Wednesday lunchtime. My experience was getting passed often, then not ever being able to find anyone???
A spot would be handy, but only if the geographically misplaced person has the internet to look at the spot map

Thank you,Neville

That is a brilliant write up of your trip & your photos are superb

Thank you for taking the time to share it with us-its an inspiration

Angela

Nev,
excellent RR.
A couple of points to consider from your experience:

1) Communications in a group travelling situation ( Sat Phone or similar) or maybe a portal where all those carrying a SPOT (or similar) can register their links. Hats of to Steve and his meticulus planning and your experience shows how easily and quickly a group can be fragmented. This is all very well provided that are competent/ experienced but more importantly neither broken down or injured. Definatey some food for thought there....

2) The dreaded toolbox. Iv'e checked mine and there is no issue with the Hepco & Becker pannire frames. (luckily).

Once again, congrats on a great read, and looking forward to the others to come and the action movie "Diggers Dirty Dozen".

Read Chapter Two with great interest Nev, Once again an outstanding informative ride report........Well Done.

Must admit I was a little perturbed to learn that you found yourself alone in the bush of the North West I was of the understanding that this was a "Group Ride" albeit not everyone was going all the way to DQB?

My thoughts were of the "What If" type and with no one looking for you?..............................Or have I got this all wrong??

Would love to catch up with you at Cat's on Sunday Nev but I will away down in the Northcliffe area in a Bush Cabin for 3-4 days.

Welcome Home

Swampy

Swampy, it was never a group ride, Steve takes no responsibility for the others along with him and nor should he. Steve was going for a ride to DQB and if you wanted to go the same direction then by all means follow on.

With a group of 15 plus bikes it's a big ask in dusty conditions to be able to stay together, 15 bikes pulling into a fuel station anywhere in the metro area is a pain let alone out there in the middle of BFNW.

Perhaps some details of the overnight stops would have been handy, these may well have been distributed early in the piece, in that terrain and enviroment it is not advisable to travel by yourself but it can be done safely by following basic riding and survival skills.

Nev's dehydration issues should be a warning to all that ride in any warm climate.

Thanks Bully, Point taken.

Cheers Swampy

First off, well done Nev. You rode your bike into the back blocks of WA and no doubt came out of it feeling quite chuffed with your achievement... and a good story + pics to prove it.

I feel its important to make some comments about Nev's ride.

Please take these as constructive criticism Nev, which may help you or others out in the future.

Not in any particular order:
WHERE NEXT? - It seems that each time the group gathered, you did not make a point of 'knowing' where the next ride leg was headed. Our next stop or track was always the subject of plenty of chatter among the group so I'm not sure how you missed those discussions. For example, whilst refuelling at Mt Augustus, I repeatedly heard people discussing Dooley Downs as the place we'll camp. Being the last to refuel, I also was on the receiving end of a sarcastic comment from the lady in the shop about us staying at Dooley Downs instead of their camp ground.

MT AUGUSTUS - I'd be surprised if you weren't carrying a map. Did you familiarise yourself with the various stations along the route to Tom Price or Hamersley Gorge? The alarm bell should have rung for you after leaving Mt Augustus when the first sign post (less than 1km away) mentioned Cobra Stn. And heading west for an extended distance also should have alerted you, as it always was a northbound ride. I realise you thought you were following Jamie but you had conflicting circumstances and needed some confirmation you were going in the right direction. Did you stop and look at the road surface for multiple m/cycle tyre tracks? As sweep, I always had ample evidence on the road surface that many bikes were ahead of me.

PARABURDOO - I never heard anyone mention or discuss that Paraburdoo was on the itinerary. On the contrary, the talk was always about getting to Tom Price for fuel, food, and phone reception. Nevertheless, a quick question in the Paraburdoo fuel servo would have confirmed that no other bike riders 'dressed like you' have passed through. You were never in the lead, so a quick look at the map would then tell you that Tom Price was only 80kms away via bitumen road and to get your skates on.

SWEEP - I'm guessing you managed to get behind me (as sweep) by pulling off the road to have a rest and take some photos. Admirable reasons for a stop but if you park off the road, its gunna take a slice of luck for the sweep to see that. I'm not sure how far off the road you were parked but all of us are mostly concentrating on the track surface ahead of us with only quick looks at the countryside to take in the scenery. Even if you were parked only 20m off the road, its easy to not see it. Much better to leave the bike beside the road so its easily noticed.

As I said, I hope these comments are taken as constructive because that's how I intend them - nothing else. I greatly respect that you got out there and had a go on your GSA. And along the way you got your own adventure. After all, that's why we buy these bikes.