Three Oceans Tour 2015 – Part 3

[spacey1]

Warning: In the following text, there will be images of motorcycle porn. If you are offended by said images, please go back to watching reality TV.

Now where were we...

The Plan: Leave the Indian Ocean behind, nip across the Nullarbor, have a couple of ferry rides across the mighty Murray River, cruise through the Coorong in South Australia, then whip over to Phillip Island via the Queenscliffe/Sorrento Ferry. Slide blissfully through as many winding mountains passes as possible through the Victorian High Country. Pop into Canberra for a little culture at the National Art Gallery. Zig-zag over to the crest of Morton National Park to take in the Pacific Ocean, obey gravity all the way down to Nowra, then slip up to Royal National Park. Back down the coast and over to camp at Lake Jindabyne, and track the Murray River Hydro Scheme over to Wodonga. Phillip Island next, then back home via Great Ocean Road and the Coorong. Pause casually at as many spectacular Australian locations as possible as we meander back to the Great Australian Bight, Nullarbor and lastly home...

You'll have probably noticed that Part 2 is still not published...
Like all great epics these days, it's just not fashionable to start at the beginning and finish at the end. Never know your luck, there may be a preQuel in the wings...


Part 3: The return leg

Setting out rather late from Phillip Island on a dreary cloud-covered day, our target for the morning is the Queenscliffe/Sorrento Ferry. The journey is about 130 kms through the suburban sprawl that is Greater Melbourne. It encompasses short freeway legs, crawling through suburbs in traffic, and not forgetting numerous 'adventure' excursions into small villages, courtesy of my inattention to Google babbling away in my ears.

So, the usual outcome to said numerous adventures is missing the Queenscliffe/Sorrento Ferry. Well, we did see it leaving...



That's an hour before the next one departs. Coffee and feet-up time... That was, after all, the plan for the return journey to our Indian Ocean. Drag our feet. Stop everywhere. The waters of Port Phillip Bay were a little disturbed, but we made it to the land side without any incidents. There was a grey cloud, but it did clear as the scenery picked up.

In the course of previous multiple conversations, it was a recommendation NOT to travel via the Great Ocean Road at Easter time. Too many grey nomads and tourists with 4WD's towing caravans, all intent on enjoying the scenery, completely oblivious to other road users. The weather can be rubbish to boot.

Intent on seeing everything on the way home, a team decision was made, Great Ocean Road it is. Escaping Geelong and surrounds seemed to take an eternity, but we made it.





And I'm pleased to report, it just kept on getting better
You can tell by the warmth of her smile.



Our first stop, the compulsory 'Twelve Apostles' magnet. Well, 'Eleven Apostles' or however you count 'em.





Surprisingly, many of the formations reminded us of Cappodocia in Turkey with their capped sandstone structures.







It was getting late in the day, so onto Port Campbell it was. We can come back in the morning. The light is different then too. Accommodation in Port Campbell was a little short. It is still Easter after all. But after a cruise or two up and down the main street, stopping to ask here and there, we were directed to a Backpackers lodge. Greeted by a rather cheerful pair of blokes imbibing an amber fluid or two, we accepted the very clean double bed room for us and secure parking for our bikes. Food was found, beer was shared, sleep was easy and necessary, as Kingston SE in South Australia was our target for tomorrow evening. There is lots to see between here and there.



Up at a reasonable hour next day, we cruised back to the 'Twelve... er... Eleven Apostles'. As expected, the morning sun threw a different colour over the formations.
Then onto The Arch...



The Bay of Isles...



Yep, I can tell it's still getting better

[spacey1]

Not far now to the Victoria / South Australia border. Rain looks likely. But being law-abiding citizens, the sign said 'Quarantine', so the last of our delicious Snowy apples had to be eaten. We briefly considered the thought of a pit-stop, but on entering the pine forest here decided that this is another of those places where vicious axe murderers lurk. Very spooky in there. The rain did finally arrive. South Australia was in for a long overdue wash. This time it only rained for an hour or so. No biggie... That's what we buy wet weather gear for...



Next stop, the Umpherston Sinkhole gardens on the outskirts of Mt Gambier. Discovered by early settlers who cleared it and built steps down to the lake at that time. Many a garden party was held down here to escape the summer heat. In more recent times, the lowering water table left the lake dry. A community project was started to establish the lush gardens and easy access for tourists. Honestly, we had no idea where it was. Easy parking is provided. The information centre said, "It's just over there." Invisible, the sinkhole is, hidden behind a wall of flowers. It's not until you are virtually standing at the top of the stairs that you are even aware that it's there. Quite remarkable and definitely worth the visit... and no cost.



Back when I was a kid, my Father took us over to Mt Gambier for a visit. Over the 50 years since I was here last, the region has experienced serious water issues. The increased pressure on ground water resources have seen the water table drop significantly. This is most obvious at the beautiful Blue Lake. The greenness of the area belies the trouble under the ground.



Moving right along, we zigged where we should have zagged, zipped through wide empty country to Penola and Lucindale ending up at Kingston SE for the night.

An early mist clad the country. But our plan for the day, was to attempt a reverse of my journey to Kingston SE from Orroroo (under McFarkle top tutelage). Cruising blissfully through the Coorong, avoiding the occasional kangaroo, we stopped by Meningie's waterfront to share a laugh about the ostrich-riding bushranger of the region.

The Birdman of the Coorong was an Irishman... John Francis Peggotty was thought to be South Australia’s only genuine bushranger that roamed the Coorong on an ostrich!







Criss-Crossing the great Murray River multiple times on the many ferries to experience rivers that we in Western Australia can only imagine. Murray Bridge and Mannum provided great opportunities. Mannum twice, due to ignoring the advice of Google in my ear. Target for the night was Orroroo. Itching I was, to fill my belly with that superb Thai cooking at the Orroroo pub.

Did I mention the rain. Yep, from Mannum north, it pelted down. No rain for a couple of years in this part of South Australia. 140mm in an afternoon. The skies were dark. The headlamp bulb blew on the 1150. It got rather cold. Google never said a word for 2 hours. I was starting to get worried that it heard me getting grumpy earlier. Then just before the required turn-off to Peterborough, it blurted out, "In 750 metres, turn left." Google is definitely male. Only talks when it needs to. Not like those pesky GPS's that feel the need to hear their own voices constantly... Actually, Google, it wouldn't hurt if you could talk 'just a little' more! Anyway, finally made it to Orroroo just before sunset, it was already dark from the raging storm. We were both cold and needed to get into a hot shower and eat hot food. The Orroroo Pub publican is a very understanding gentleman. Secure parking and an inexpensive warm comfortable bed for the night was available, with hot showers just down the hallway. The Thai cooking was just as I remembered, bloody fantastic!

[spacey1]

Up early again, as you do when on tour, we packed our gear onto our machines and got out onto the road. Thankful that the rain, which fell out of the sky all through night, had stopped, and mindful that causeways over the roads may be in flood, we headed out towards Port Augusta. The first major causeway was indeed flooded with fast-flowing, brown mud-laden water. Dropping down to 1st gear, I eased my way through the flood. Then next minute, a fully loaded 1150 GS zoomed past. After a short discussion on the dangers of racing over flooded causeways, all was OK again. Luckily, no more floods were encountered.

Cutting through the Flinders Ranges, my favourite, Horrocks Pass, was next on the agenda.





However, with visibility in short supply, we very cautiously wound our way over the pass, expecting trucks or caravans to pop out of the mist at every switchback turn. Every trip over the Flinders is a different trip. The changing colours in area place are magical.



Stopping on the western side of the Flinders Ranges, we both dragged out the cameras and re-arranged billions of electrons on those SD cards.



The Flinders Ranges are a very special place... Port Augusta can be seen in the distance.



First stop in Port Augusta, Autobarn for that blown headlamp on the 1150 GS. Next stop, Subway for our bellies. Same ol' argument as last time with the grumpy woman running the place... How hard can it be substituting a slice of ham for a slice of pepperoni?



With the weather clearing and the sun coming out again, we pushed on past Iron Knob, the compulsory photo stop at Kimba and finished the day in a warm bed at the Streaky Bay Hotel. Those 'oyster and vodka shots' sure made sleep easy. The seafood here is superb. All caught locally in that Great Southern Ocean just out the front door.

[spacey1]

Another early get-up and we're on route to the Head of the Bight. The superb facilities are about 12 km from the highway... and $7 to $12 to enter (absolutely do pay and go). Plenty of secure parking, toilets, and air conditioning for the warmer months. It's a comfortable walk down to the viewing platform. Due to the desire to include wheelchair access, the platforms get a little long for those not in wheelchairs. Whales park themselves here for 3 months of the year while their calves grow large enough to endure the journey back to whence they came. The infrastructure at the Head of the Bight is absolutely number one. The amazing viewing platform puts you, the viewer, right out over the ocean. Heck, in the middle of the Never-Never, there is even ice cream



We dropped in to Look-out Number 1. Spectacular views of the Great Australian Bight. I got scalded for bypassing the nanny state stuff, so quickly jumped back across the line.

Further up the highway, close to Lookout Number 2, we took a dirt track east. It was a little damp in spots, causing the big 1150 GS and rider to action a big 2nd gear slide. However all that cornering practice in the Snowy Mountains did the trick. And no more than a smile was raised from the incident.











As illustrated in the photo, there is no excuse for not checking out Lookout Number 2, as it is only a couple of hundred metres from the Eyre Highway. Who would have known?



I had to include Woody's Wheels in the shot. Lovely bit of kit that completely transformed the handling on my GSA.



We made it to the South Australia / Western Australia border, just in time for a complete search, unwarranted of course, but hey, they have a job to do.

We turned into Lookout Number 3 for a token glance as massive black rain clouds were stomping in from the Great Southern Ocean. The rain came. But we just made it to the Eucla Caravan Park dry, booked into an even drier room then closed our eyes for another well earned rest, ready to punch out again in the early morning.

Petrol is cheaper at Eucla. The Border Village was way more expensive on the way over AND return.

Referencing the poster in the Eucla Resort, we had some serious work to do to make our way home over the next couple of days.



The obligatury photo stop at Madura Pass...





A snooze was called for at Caiguna. I walked around the back and chatted with a pilot who had just re-fuelled his Cessna and was ready to take off hoping not to catch up with the bad weather behind us, and in front of him. The rain front that came through from the West and passed thankfully overnight, had all the pleasures of a cold beer to the thirsty brown land around us. It appeared to throw out lush greens before our eyes.





On to the famous Ninety Mile Straight (146.6km)...



With more of the regulation fuel stops, the vast Nullarbor Plain was behind us. Lots of this



And this...



And more of this...



And faster than a speeding house...



The Western end of the 90 Mile Straight...

[spacey1]

On to Norseman for more fuel and food.



The Hyden-Norseman Road is wet from all the rain, therefore north to Coolgardie it is...

I've always wanted to stop and take a couple of shots on the causeway across Lake Cowan





And a shot or two of my favourite farkles, Woody's Wheels and Touratech
Why I hear you ask? Well, it's my story after all





One more sleep, and a breakfast presentation to my girl for her first Nullarbor crossing and great effort on a near 1000 km day

The 40 kms of roadworks west of Coolgardie were still far from completed adding a half hour of extra waiting to the last leg of our journey.



Shouldn't forget those trees in the early morning light per instructions from the Boss...



One last pit stop... How's that, just when you really needed one...



Home in Perth with a celebratory drink down on the Indian Ocean at Hillarys Boat Harbour.

[bill9117]

Well put together Nev :

[spacey1]

Thanks Bill, this stuff takes time

[Bozo]

Nev

Great photos and a real sense of the great Australian road trip but.....

It seems that you ignored the protocols for long distance travel and accompanied a rider that was two tyred.

Fog...you call that fog. Port Augusta on the way to the Border Run never looked so good...

[jono]

Excellent work Nev.
Now onto the 40th story, pics and vid after all that was November last year not April this year