A discussion on late revolved around lousy low-speed running on R1200 oil-head boxer-engines.
Asked if the InfiniTech ECU re-mapping is of any use, this was my reply.
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The InfiniTech mapping works well for me on my 08 GSA, 196,000 km now... and loving it.
I've tuned a couple of 08 GSs and they don't easily lift the front wheel... in any gear really.
I don't know what you have in mind. Maybe we should talk about that at a Tuning Day for example. My long term fuel consumption is in the order of 5.3 litres per 100 km. Maybe a fraction better than the 5.4 I always used to get.
That does depend on how you ride of course. I've had anywhere between 4.5 and 7.
But this is my experience with this problem.
When new (to me circa 30k km), it was a pig while launching in 1st gear. It would stall at the drop of a hat, literally.
The idle 'quality' was rubbish. Never smooth. Low speed in traffic was painful, constantly swapping gears to stop the surging. The dealer said that that was normal for these models.
All BMW repairers around Perth had a go at fixing it.
In the end, I decided that I needed to get onto the problem myself. It is now fixed.
The launch at traffic lights is totally robust. It's not really the idle that is weak, it is that tiny range just off idle that lets it down.
Working through traffic is no longer a chance affair of 'will it stall or not'
With less than 15 litres of fuel in the tank, the front wheel will lift in 2nd gear.
This is the order that i would recommend you approach the problem. Definitely not a same-day job.
1. BMW Fuel system cleaner ONLY: Run a full tank of fuel with a full can of fuel system cleaner. ONLY use the BMW stuff (or if you are lucky enough to have access to Techron, use that).
Change the oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not overfill as the excess ends up in the bottom of your air-box.
2. Valve clearances - engine must be cold!
3. Fit a Clean air filter
4. Fit Iridium spark plug
5. Throttle body balance - Step One @ idle - engine must be at operating temperature
6. Throttle body balance - Step Two @ 3,000 rpm - engine must be at operating temperature
7. Iterate Steps 5 and 6 over a couple of weeks.
8. Fit any modifications: Performance exhausts; cams; etc
9. InfiniTech re-mapping
There's a fair bit of work involved if the idle balance is poor, which is where I think the real problem is. The throttle bodies need to come off.
There's that 'screw' that every technician (including BMW) says, 'do not adjust'.
Re InfiniTech ECU maps, I was given two options. I'm not strictly sure that my choice of Map 2 was really optimal. I would have preferred a 'Map 3' which would have blended the bottom of 'Map 2' with the upper end of 'Map 1'. But it was slow speed drive-ability improvements that I was chasing and there was no 'Map 3'.
I had a StainTune full system + InfiniTech ECU remapping fitted at the time. It was pretty awesome at the top end, especially overtaking on the highway with a full touring load.
But I've recently removed the Staintune header as it was just too noisy on tour. I miss the top end, but not the noise. The single skinned-headers are responsible for the most noise, and power... Remus headers are the same, power plus noise. Yeah yeah, I know... "If it's too noisey, you're too old"... I'm too old...
I've even re-fitted the standard exhaust can this year as the noise on tour was making me crazy. I had a 90,000 km of fun with the extra zoom-zoom.
Moving back to the standard exhaust lost top end power but gained huge comfort from less noise.
These engines do respond well to freeing up the exhaust. An
inexpensive, quiet, light, powerful exhaust would be awesome
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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz