R1200 GSA (2008) ESA Shock Absorber Removal

[spacey1]

Currently changing out my worn out ESA shock absorbers for a pair of Wilbers WESA...

So first up, remove the standard shocks, or as BMW call them, spring struts.

I've got a manual, a repRom, and the internet. How hard can that be?

Joy of all joys, the manual doesn't discuss GSA ESA.

The repRom missed the GSA ESA section to boot...

The internet! There's always AdvRider for all things BMW...

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/h ... gs.856133/

Excellent... However the more I progressed the job, the less relevant the AdvRider post became.

Don't get me wrong, it is useful as an overview. But a GS is not a GSA.

The Rear ESA Spring Strut

The rear is a doddle really. Removing the exhaust is recommended. I'm not going to do that, so I just loosen it and pull it to the side, after removing the rear pannier frame brace. No problem.

In the case of the rear, it's pretty obvious what exactly needs to be removed. That is that big shock absorber assembly. Unplug a couple of loom connectors that run off to the ECU, top bolt, bottom bolt, done...

Before you know it, the following 5 kg unit is on the floor.

[spacey1]

The Front ESA Spring Strut

Well nothing is that obvious up under the front...

Nowhere could I find an image of exactly what item I'm supposed to remove. All the non-ESA information points to removing a big single shock absorber. But the ESA assembly is made up of hoses, brackets, motors, pumps, and a shock absorber. None of it solidly connected like the large single unit on the rear. What am I supposed to be removing? The unit needs to be sent to Melbourne to retrofit the Wilbers WESA.

So after much hair pulling (no wonder I've got bugger all left), I worked it out. And to make it easy for the next guy, here's a picture.

Do not undo any of the hydraulic hoses.



Whether you like it or not, the fuel tank (GSA 33 litres) must be unhitched and moved back to reveal the top shock mount and the ECU. The fuel lines do not need to be disconnected. All the covers must come off, including the fuel filler fixture. The air inlet snorkel also must be removed as it stops the fuel tank from sliding backwards. The lower crash bar sections must also come off to allow the telelever to drop down.



Make sure that the fuel tank is low on fuel before you start.

Here's a picture of the top shock mount hole in the frame just in front of the ECU. The front ESA loom connectors (x2) are also illustrated.



So all the bolts, brackets, and ECU loom connectors are disconnected.

The literature says, yeah, wait for it, "Remove the spring strut".

There isn't enough room to get the shock unit out of the frame. This is when you suddenly notice (a) the whole front end is being supported by the front brake line and (b) realize the importance of Point 1 on the AdvRider post.

So undo the small bolt that holds the brake line to the frame on the RH side (Your brake line will get very stretched otherwise).

AND
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1. Put bike on centrestand with ~1.5" of boards underneath, this is somewhat important for the rear but VERY important for the front.
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Luckily, in my case, the rear spring strut was removed. This allowed a jack to be put in front of the centre stand and raised to tip the front of the bike upwards. Raising the front lets the wheel and telelever drop to it's lowest position. Be careful...



Back to the literature, again, "Remove the spring strut". There's still not enough room to remove the shockie! After more hair-pulling, I notice the telelever resting against the LH cylinder. No amount of levering is going to make it move any further.



The GS-based literature: No need to remove the Alternator Belt Cover. Yeah right.

It's a GSA. Remove the Alternator Belt Cover. This allows for the perfect clearance to let the complete unit come out of the frame. And we're talking millimetre clearance (1).



So if you're lucky, and the bike hasn't fallen on your head and crushed you, you will have two ESA Spring Struts (5 kg each) that can be boxed and shipped to Melbourne (In my case).