R1200 Throttle body problems - broken cable pulleys

[spacey1]

Another little job to add to the list of items to check at your next service...

Not saying it's a problem, just saying... I held 'em in my hand and still didn't believe it!

Cracked / broken throttle cable quadrants / pulleys on the throttle bodies (Bing).

YouTube video:

BMW MOA: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.ph ... 09-R1200RT

ADV Rider: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/h ... ed.967780/

ADV Rider: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/t ... ms.882064/

The Solution from Bing (They make 'em): http://bingcarburetor.com/throttlebodies.html

Check your numbers on the bodies: eg. Type 77 http://bingcarburetor.com/store/p18/TYP ... ULLEY.html

Read through this thread: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/t ... t-34108024

I love the part where Tuff Tunica says, "Oh, and after a test ride, having totally adjusted the "DO NOT EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, FEAR OF DEATH" warnings about adjusting the idle adjustment screw, I can say that my bike has never run better!"

I cannot agree more... Been there done that

[jono]

Recently I had both throttle body pulleys on my 09 1200GSA break. Unlike the earlier GS’ ie 1150’s which had metal pulley’s the 1200’s have pressed on plastic pulley’s. While there is a throttle stop at the fully closed position there is no throttle stop at full wide open position. This means if you have too much cable tension or not enough slack in the system, opening the throttle fully puts a direct strain on the plastic pulley. In my case I had changed the R/H grip and ordered the later model part in error. This resulted in no slack in the system and hence the stress on the throttle pulleys caused them to snap. From my subsequent online research it is not uncommon for this to occur with some owners reporting the failures when overtaking traffic!, not a good time to have your bike drop back to idle.

The Bing Agency in Kansas sells parts for these and the older throttle bodies. I ordered 2 pulleys at cost of $80 aud posted. In hindsight the repair is much simpler if you order the pulleys with shafts fitted. It adds about another usd40, but saves the task of pressing out the old shafts and peening on the new pulleys. Anyway the removal, fix and fitting of the parts took a half day in total. I took it for a ride this morning and it’s was a bit out of sync, our technical officer Nev soon sorted this out with one of his expert tuneups. Now it’s running great again.

[spacey1]

Here's a bit more information on identifying your throttle bodies in case you need to order parts from BING.

The 'cable pulley' is available as a separate item OR preferably purchase the assembled 'cable pulley and shaft'. In manufacturing, the 'cable pulley is pressed and peened onto the end of the shaft, no thread and nut like on the earlier 'R1150'.

Viewed externally at the base of each throttle, there are alpha / numerics cast onto the rib.


Sadly, these cast alpha / numerics are of no value to identifying the throttle bodies. I rang BING in the USA figuring I'd done the right thing.

The proper identifiers are cast and stamped into the INSIDE of both left and right throttle body lower ribs. After cutting the cable ties and pulling back the electrical wiring, then using a mirror and light to photograph the identifiers, you should end up with something like this.

If you're lucky, you end up with a shot clear enough to read...


Close-up...


Bear in mind that a mirror produces a mirror image and the resulting image will need to be reversed to reveal the correct identifiers.

Like so...


The important values are:

Name: BING (Go on...)
Body Type Code: 77
Body specific: 47 (This could be 47 or 50 - At the time of enquiry, BING USA no longer had the '50' shafts)

Don't forget that the LEFT and RIGHT sides are different, so when ordering state that you require both left and right.

Of course a little inspection mirrors with led (your club now has one) or one of those fancy borescopes would be handy too