Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

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spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Closer to our destination, Pangong Lake. Still not in sight... It's out there :roll:

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Our trusty guide, Kelly, takes the lead. Our tummies are full with large serves of carbs again. This is the road-side cafe where I encountered my first delicious serving of 'Maggi Noodles'. I still can't believe how mouth-wateringly tasty those 'Maggi Noodles' were. And wolfed down with the confidence that I was eating food that wouldn't kill me...

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

At cross-roads, to avoid confusion and navigation errors, I played the corner marker. My safety green backpack provided a shining marker for the trailing riders. The locals put their stupas in the most absurd locations. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Now-a-days, when BRO want to upgrade the roads, there's a huge amount of hoo-haa :roll:

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Weaving our way through the mountains, and the traffic, proved to be more pleasurable each and every day. :P

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

But as usual, there are those breath-taking moments where one simply must stop... 8)

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To again drink in the vista...

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And pay homage to ol' 5151 for it's brilliant service...

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Sometimes stopping is even more inspiring than the ride...

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Like oil dripping from an artist's canvas...

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Oops, looks like I'm behind the sweep again. Here's the truck. There's three in the back seat now... and that's the brilliant Ashish in the front passenger side. Go Ashish...

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
Kenny Gawenda
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by Kenny Gawenda »

Great photos and run report! A top ride! Thanks for sharing the adventure. Cheers!
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

At last, our first glimpse of the Pangong Lake (altitude 4250 metres)

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More paint dripping from the artist's pallette...

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Looking back... about 5 hours to Leh...

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I'm getting carried away with the scenery. Better get on with catching up to the crew...
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Now here's the rub... All of our previous stop-overs have been quite orderly... The sweep vehicle has always been patient allowing photo stops and the like.

Well, I never did catch up with the sweep truck. Arriving at the Spangmik Village, I'm confronted with literally hundreds of tents, streets (or rocky dirt replicas of same) and signs everywhere but no sign of my crew :|

So after about half an hour of searching for the group, I return to the entrance to the village. Soon after, Kelly finds me and we head down to our tent lodgings for the night.

The Pangong Lake...
  • It is a saline water lake which freezes completely during winters. It is said that there are no fish or any aquatic life in the lake, except possible small shrimp. Even micro-vegetation levels are low.
  • The only in-flow of water is snow-melt. It has no out-flow.
  • Pangong Lake is in the process of being identified under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance.
  • The lake is a disputed territory. The Line of Actual Control passes through the lake.
  • A section of the lake 20 km from the Line of Actual Control is controlled by China but claimed by India.
  • The Eastern end (About 60%) is in China-controlled Tibet and India doesn’t claim it.
  • The Western end is disputed between India and Pakistan.
  • As it is in the Sino-Indian Line of Actual Control, an Inner Line Permit is required to visit the Spangmik Village and surrounds.
The last point was probably the most pertinent. As a foreigner, it is difficult to obtain these permits without using the services of an Indian travel agent (or considerable bakshish :shock: )

A couple of days after we visited, there was a small skirmish at the border.

http://www.firstpost.com/india/india-ch ... 35981.html
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Looking around the lake on the bikes and on shank's ponies, we discover the local 'favourite' spot where the tourists gather.

Here's James looking pretty tough (on ol' 5151).

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I said, "James, take a picture of me just like this..." Well it's pretty close :lol: Still wearing the club shirt 8) So it's still a club ride, right?

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There's this famous Indian Bollywood movie called the '3 Idiots'. Apparently scenes were shot up here, hence the Vespa scooter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3_Idiots
For a small fee, you could dress up like the Idiots and have group shots taken around the scooters with the genuine lake in the background. We didn't do that :roll:

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Some say we were already dressed like the 'Idiots'... hmmmmmmmm
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

The water originates from only snow-melt and glaciers. It doesn't rain up here. The water is crystal clear and if you notice from the photos, there are almost no people with their feet in the water?

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That's because it's 'BLOODY' freezing :shock: ... and crystal clear...

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Then where else on the planet would you rather be riding motorbikes and have views like these of the Pangong Lake and the Himalayas to soothe your senses... very 8) Deep breathe now...

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Looking towards the border... and the Sino-Indian Line of Actual Control. No-Go in that direction, only trouble... :|

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Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Hey mate, what's the view like from the front of the tent?

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Yep, that's special... Leh is back there. Hard to imagine that we just rode up through those mountains...

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Hey mate, my view is pretty special too... Do you know we're camping at about the same altitude as the Matterhorn :shock:

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That's looking in the direction to the India / Tibet / China Line of Control...

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The ever-changing light has a magical effect on the Pangong Lake and the Himalayas...

The biggest challenge that we're about to encounter is the long trek to the canteen tent for re-fueling the humans. It's about a hundred metres away over a rocky up-hill path. Hard yakka, you know, at 4,350 metres... :shock:
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
spacey1
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

Great video of a trio of Adventurers taking on India.

It's over an hour long and good fun...

They picked up bikes in Delhi :shock:
A full length Himalayan Motorcycle Adventure where two Indian riders take two Australians and a German rider into far north India to explore the spectacular Ladakh area and the Himalayas.
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
Bozo
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by Bozo »

Nev

Stunning filming and motivates you to get on your bike.

Bozo
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by spacey1 »

In light of the interest that some of our club members have in a Himalaya tour in 2020, I thought it pertinent that I scribe a little about what I consider necessary for this type of tour.

Major point of note: The Himalayas rise to a very high altitude and experiences extremes of weather. Both of these characteristics have the potential to cause 'death'. Do not take this lightly. Prepare well.

TIP 1.

CLOTHING OPTIONS

Weather proof gear should fit over the outside of your riding gear. This is invaluable against MONSOON RAIN, THE COLD and THE WIND.

Your fitment must include layers for the cold 'in the negative degC range'.

Bear in mind that it gets hot (30+ degC), the ability to shed layers is essential. No matter the temperature, protection from the sun (sunburn), wind (windburn), and altitude (increases the previously mentioned effects) are always your primary concerns.

Gear that has close-able vents will assist greatly in cooling and warming.
A fold-away hood in a funnel collar is most convenient for motorcycle use.


GORETEX OUTER SKIN JACKET

Unfortunately, GoreTex jackets with both a fold-away hood in funnel collar AND under-arm vents are not available at the time of writing?
I chose to have a fold-away hood in a funnel collar as I didn't want the hood flapping around behind my helmet all the time, nor the problem of re-fitting a removable hood when required.

AN EXAMPLE: The Mountain Design GoreTex jacket has a funnel collar so that you can fold away the hood. The collar fills the space between your shoulders and helmet.
https://www.mountaindesigns.com/mens-cl ... BP90146593


GORETEX OUTER SKIN TROUSER

Again: Wear all your riding gear to make sure that the jacket and trousers fit over everything, including your riding boots.
Remember wet feet gets wet from warm driving monsoon rain (on the Manali side) AND freezing glacier-melt water.

I've got the earlier model of the Kathmandu X series trouser. They are not cheap, but in the Himalayas the difference could mean NOT dying :) That was how I approached my gear purchases.

These trousers zip up from the bottom and down from the top. This allows easy dressing/undressing with full gear. You will quickly discover that any exertion at high altitude is incredibly taxing on sea-level humans. You will be thankful for clothing that reduces exertion.

The ability to easily zip these trousers down from the top allows full air flow into your legs and boots when it's warm/hot.
The X-Series have extra-tough wear sections around the lower leg to prevent damage from scuffing on the bike.

They have press studs and Velcro fasteners that tighten around your boots to help prevent water entry while crossing freezing GLACIER-MELT water streams.

AN EXAMPLE: https://www.kathmandu.com.au/xt-alopex- ... pants.html

Again: They are not cheap, but in the Himalayas the difference could mean not dying :) That was how I approached my gear purchases.

HIGH GORETEX BOOTS (NOT ankle boots...)

Everything that you can do to prevent GLACIER-MELT stream water from mixing with your socks and feet is worth the effort, and to my mind, the cost.
I was lucky that my high BMW boots were GoreTex and didn't have to buy new ones. My boots are the street version, not enduro/MX style, therefore comfortable enough for walking.

By taking all the above precautions, I never experienced water on the wrong side of my clothing.

It must be said that everything dries quicker at high altitude than at sea level. BUT ONLY if it isn't frozen. Humans included!

BROAD-BRIMMED FOLD-ABLE HAT

The sunburn at high altitude is a big problem.

Take a broad-brimmed hat with neck protection and chin-strap.


SHOES

Always remember, you are in one of those places on Earth where breaking the seal that your skin provides your body (cuts) can have serious consequences, like death.
For Example: I'm referring to simply kicking your toe on a rock/concrete/wood.

Wear fully-enclosed footwear that protects your toes and feet. ie. No exposed toes, no thongs.


GLOVES

I carried and used my BMW GS gloves; AlpineStar DryStar GoreTex; and waterproof over-mittens. They all served their purposes well.


BACKPACK

It's great to have a backpack that is the 'standard safety green'.
One that is visible from a distance by people following you. My riding colleagues mentioned on several occasions that the coloured backpack was a beacon for them on the tour.


Money spent on this clothing will service your many motorcycling needs for years to come. I was kicking myself for not having quality gear like this before.

That's all for TIP 1.
Himalayas Royal Enfield Tour 2017; Camp Cook-Off Winner 2017; Kennedy Ranges; Three Oceans Tour Australia; Hyden-Norseman Breakaways; R1200 series final drive repair; Mt Augustus; Bimbijy Station; Around Oz
Raider
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Re: Himalayas: Manali to Leh and beyond + PIX

Post by Raider »

Nev, Spectacular! The geology too... Thank you for sharing. Raider
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