Engine Mods: ECU, A/F ratio, Power controller, drive-ability

[spacey1]

Greetings all,

Thought I'd start a new topic/discussion with it's own heading to make it more find-able.

Now I happen to have a little time under my belt, mapping ECU's (about 7 years worth). So for what it's worth, here's a brain dump.
Feel free to add to / correct / dispute / comment.

It is a very technical issue we are dealing with.

And it depends on your required mixture (pun intended) of outcomes

Drive-ability improvements, power improvements, fuel economy, and of course the ones that manufacturers are legally obliged to confirm too, emissions.

Assuming the lean mixture is the only problem... which is almost never the case, but a slightly richer mixture CAN improve smoothness / affect fuel consumption (up or down).

Note of warning: Most folks add stuff when a tune-up is required, then go ahead and test the bike.
The benefits of a tune-up PLUS an add-on are going to make the owner feel much better about the add-on accessory. Therefore speak highly of the add-on.
The cost of doing a pre-tune-up dyno run PLUS a post-tune-up dyno run PLUS a post add-on run are usually not what people are prepared to splash CASH for.

Some scenario's... (Not exhaustive, but wide enough for this discussion)

. 1. Air/Fuel Ratio Control - Tricking the ECU by making the mixture richer only (Power Booster plug, and many variations) (with all sorts of variations of speed / load / rpm settings).

Simply adds an offset to the signal sent from the oxygen sensor in the exhaust which basically tells the ECU that the engine is colder than it is.
Cheapest solution and assumes that the device will automatically adapt to adding other engine goodies
Small and easy to hide, dependent on the product.
Can be removed from bike to return to standard and maybe re-using on the next bike, assuming it fits.

2. Air/Fuel Ratio Control - Plugging in aftermarket boxes after between the ECU / Injectors / Fuel system (Wunderlich/Interceptor)

More complicated, in that it has a set of external maps that adjusts the fuel injector output post ECU signal.
Don't know how it gets around the oxygen sensor then telling the ECU that it is rich according to the stock map inside the ECU.
Cheaper solution and assumes that the device will automatically adapt to adding other engine goodies
Packaging size can be an issue, dependent on the product, may require some space and wiring to fit.
Can be removed from bike to return to standard and maybe re-using on the next bike, assuming it fits.

3. Ignition and A/F Ratio Control - Plugging in aftermarket boxes after between the ECU / ignition / Injectors (Power Commander III, etc)

Not cheap but a better solution. Most of these manufacturers have a large listing of maps (for individual bikes) which are updated by manufacturer and user experience.
More complicated, in that it has a set of external maps that adjusts the fuel injector output AND ignition parameters post ECU signal.
Often is packaged with their own oxygen sensors.
This type of product acknowledges that there a more parameters to engine mapping than simple air/fuel ratio.
Maps are usually available on their websites for downloading if other engine goodies / exhausts / cat removals / air filters are added later.
Packaging size can be an issue, dependent on the product, may require some space and wiring to fit.
Can be removed from bike to return to standard and maybe re-using on the next bike, assuming it fits..

4. Re-mapping the ECU with a new map that modifies all parameters that control the operation of the engine / combustion / ignition / Injectors (BB Power, Hilltop Motorcycles, etc)

Best solution (if done well with proven technical experience, extensive/expensive dyno time)
Not complicated but completely technical as all ECU parameters are modified.
This can reap smoothness, unleash power, improve fuel consumption (dependent on the amount of extra power one chooses to use, of course).
Zero packaging issues as no extra boxes or wiring are required.
Whether it is adaptable to add-ons is not known, but MOST engine ECUs seem to be to cope with adding an exhaust can and filter which is all most people do. BMW for example do allow an Akro system without modification to ECE.
ECU needs to be removed/fitted and shipped to the place of modification and back. (Most people want it now).
Non-transferable back to standard or to another bike unless it is the same. But the new owner will be very happy


No simple solutions really.
Use your dollars wisely

Websites for products discussed:

BBPower Germany: http://www.bbp.homepage.t-online.de/r1200gse.htm

Wunderlich Germany: http://www.wunderlich-bmw.com/en/shop/20/tuning/3/

Booster Plug: http://www.boosterplug.com/shop/bmw-r12 ... -15c1.html

Power Commander: http://www.powercommander.com/powercomm ... 0III%20USB

Hilltop Motorcycles: http://www.hilltopmotorcycles.com/

Hilltop Motorcycles Interceptor: http://www.hilltopmotorcycles.com/shop/ ... goryID=149

Interceptor: http://www.bikeinterceptor.com/products ... nterceptor

[spacey1]

Greetings all again,

In relation to drive-ability, my own much-loved R1200 GSA 2008 is a pig. I love this bike and want this fixed.

The throttle response curve feels like it's going up stairs in steps instead of up a smooth slope.
It was a remarkably easy bike to stall at the lights. I always thought the 'Launch control' section of the engine ECU mapping sucked.
There are big dips/flat sections on the throttle over different rpm. I'm not going to be specific here.
A look at dyno charts of this engine confirm this response.

I was assured that this was normal by the place I bought it from and after post-purchase services.

So I tried another tuning agent.
Some magic was performed to improve the 'Launch control'. It is now quite robust in relation to stalling at traffic lights. Not perfect, but the other problematic drive-ability symptoms are still there.

Next, I am going to go for a full tune-up with another re-known expert and assess the outcome.

If that doesn't reap rewards, then maybe ECU re-mapping is for me.

NOTE: This is not a finger-pointing exercise, just an explanation of my experience with this fantastic versatile motorcycle and its not-so-loved industrial gearbox

Maybe the 2013 water-cooled jobbie will fix all these issues. But I'm sure it will be a few years before the bugs are highlighted/sorted on this one too.

My 2 cents ftw

[spacey1]

Here we are again,

Booster Plug seem to have a pretty good explanation of how an ECU works.

http://www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-24.html

I can't verify their claims, but the ECU technical stuff is ok.

Cheers

[jono]

Nev

1) if you have that much time on your hands how about some help with the website
I have some ideas I would like to go over with you

2) I have a booster plug. I like it, dont have the problems you describe, at all, well not anymore. Bill and Mike have also tried the Booster, Mike on his HP2 with similar positive results

Cheers
JonO

Ps were you on a sickie !!

[spacey1]

Hi Jono,

Sick and tired of being sick and bored out of my brain...

I don't think I pointed out problems with any particular device, certainly not with the Booster Plug, just outlining what's available, what they do, technical sophistication and complexity, with links to where, what and why from discussions posted to bring stuff under one roof.

Additionally not many people are in a position to compare different products back-to-back on a dyno. Nor are many of us drive-ability experts. We are unlikely EVER to be able to compare each product and any additional benefits the product would likely offer on the same machine. This is merely an expose of what's out there.

Generally speaking if you have a product fitted to your machine and it feels better than before, you will be happy

That's not to say that another product will not be even better and make you even happier

One chooses how to spend one's own cash.

Any feedback from owners is of course appreciated in open discussion, and welcome.

The booster plug IS an inexpensive option. Is it the best option? Probably not.

But as stated, there is more to engine ECU mapping than just A/F ratio. To meet emissions standards, there are big trade-offs in power, economy and drive-ability.

Looking at the power and torque curve on the BB Power ECU re-mapping, this is more in line with what I would expect with efficient mapping, ignoring emissions. (Even that last statement, ignoring emissions, is curved ball. Which particular emissions are we referring to. There are many, HC, NOX, CO, CO2, etc. Ah the trade-offs one can make...) But I'm betting that the drive-ability is much improved as well as fuel economy and power.

Alas, do I want to send my expensive ECU to Germany for a month? Probably should have taken it with me. Is 250 euros a lot (Au $295) a big spend? - That's your call

Do I want to have a loud exhaust? - NO

Am I after drive-ability improvements? - YES

Would I be happier if I could have improved drive-ability, better power and better economy AND not fit a loud exhaust, NOT have to make noisy modifications to an airbox (That sound of air rushing down the intake tube at every traffic light wears off pretty quickly)? - Absolutely YES...

Re: Website, we can talk about that next week, due to the fact that neither my voice nor brain are that functional at present. I can't really see myself at breakfast on Sunday

Cheers

[_Wilks]

Gday Nev.

I'm a numpty when it comes to all that AF, mapping talk.

But, like you, I felt the performance of my GSA could be better... and I didn't want the drone of a loud pipe (the DR gives me that in spades).

So I bought a spare exhaust and removed the catalytic converter (no enviro responses please) to let the exhaust flow better. I ceramic coated the headers for that 0.01% improvement in exhaust flow and heat dissipation and the 99.99% aesthetic improvement by eliminating the 'brown' header pipe syndrome. BTW - proper ceramic coating treatment involves coating inside and outside of the pipe, the presence of the catalytic converter stops the inside coating... so removing the cat was a win/win for me.

I then bought a Wunderlich Power Commander and mucked around with the settings for ages via my high tech seat-of-the-pants ride'o'meter.

I'm now very happy with the outcome. The bike feels much snappier under acceleration - not faster or anything like that, just snappier. And exhaust has a slightly deeper note (unobtrusive) to it due to no cat.

Catalytic converter removal. Not my pic but I did the exact same thing


Ceramic coating after 15,000kms of dirt and road. I've not polished the headers since coating - below is how they look after a normal wash down

[spacey1]

So I've finally found a company who can re-map my 2008 BMW R1200 GSA ecu.

The maps are now installed.

There are 2 map options. I've tried both for 5 minutes a-piece. Map 2 is currently installed.

I'll be running each map for a week each in traffic, and on my usual weekend outings.

My current fuel consumption ranges from 5.3 to 5.5 litres/100km.

First impressions:

1. Firing her up (map2), I noticed immediately the 'superb' idle. Standard idle quality is appalling.

2. On the road, the lean conditions at the bottom end have completely disappeared. No more rough lean running and surging at low revs. It will run along cleanly at 1800 rpm in 3rd gear. Unheard of ... This should mean the bike's able to hold a gear longer, instead of constantly changing up and down in traffic due to this constant surging.

3. At full tilt, in second gear (map1), the traction control was cutting in frequently on dry-ish bitumen. Not had this before.

4. A bit early yet, but it appears the power dip at 4500 has gone. Yet to be confirmed.

5. The slope of the standard throttle map curve was more like throttle stairs. Now it is a smooth linear curve, translated, this means smooth linear throttle response.

6. The dead spot at the beginning of throttle is gone. Blipping the throttle while down-changing gears actually blips the engine making gear changes smoother.

Anyway, I'll report back in a couple of weeks with how the fuel consumption is going on normal duty.

This will be the key for me. Using less fuel means carrying less fuel on those Mount Augustus-type trips. The company reckons there will be fuel use reductions, providing of course, that the extra power is not used continuously.

With a bit of luck the StainTune will turn up one day soon too

nev... out...

[spacey1]

A little bit about the StainTune.

The balance pipe at the headers on most BMW comes from the old days when there were 2 pipes and 2 mufflers.

Using a balance cross-over allowed both cylinders/firing pulses to share both mufflers, enabling the trendy look and lightweight mufflers that doubled up to silence the exhaust racket.

I'm lead to believe that the current balance/cross-over pipe actually has only a tiny hole on either end where it butts up to both header pipes. Testing at StainTune with and without the balance pipe has showed no difference.

This is quite believe-able.

Has anyone actually cut open the header/cross-over pipe to see the points of cross-over?

nev...

[garjim]

so Nev, is this “company” ready for a lineup of boxers?.....

So I've finally found a company who can re-map my 2008 BMW R1200 GSA ecu.

The maps are now installed.

There are 2 map options. I've tried both for 5 minutes a-piece. Map 2 is currently installed.

I'll be running each map for a week each in traffic, and on my usual weekend outings.

My current fuel consumption ranges from 5.3 to 5.5 litres/100km.

First impressions:

1. Firing her up (map2), I noticed immediately the 'superb' idle. Standard idle quality is appalling.

2. On the road, the lean conditions at the bottom end have completely disappeared. No more rough lean running and surging at low revs. It will run along cleanly at 1800 rpm in 3rd gear. Unheard of ... This should mean the bike's able to hold a gear longer, instead of constantly changing up and down in traffic due to this constant surging.

3. At full tilt, in second gear (map1), the traction control was cutting in frequently on dry-ish bitumen. Not had this before.

4. A bit early yet, but it appears the power dip at 4500 has gone. Yet to be confirmed.

5. The slope of the standard throttle map curve was more like throttle stairs. Now it is a smooth linear curve, translated, this means smooth linear throttle response.

6. The dead spot at the beginning of throttle is gone. Blipping the throttle while down-changing gears actually blips the engine making gear changes smoother.

Anyway, I'll report back in a couple of weeks with how the fuel consumption is going on normal duty.

This will be the key for me. Using less fuel means carrying less fuel on those Mount Augustus-type trips. The company reckons there will be fuel use reductions, providing of course, that the extra power is not used continuously.

With a bit of luck the StainTune will turn up one day soon too

nev... out...