R1200GS Fuel Pump Flange Crack

[profoundly_disturbed]

Okay, we have ten clamps machined, black anodised, fitted complete with a stainless steel M3 SHC Screw, Nyloc nut and two washers - get 'em while they're hot!

$30 each to club members - $20 to anyone else (just kidding!)

[Swampy]

Okay, we have ten clamps machined, black anodised, fitted complete with a stainless steel M3 SHC Screw, Nyloc nut and two washers - get 'em while they're hot!

$30 each to club members - $20 to anyone else (just kidding!)

I will take one if thats okay?

Swampy

[_Wilks]

Gday Chris

Confirmed - I'll definitely take 2 please. I wont be back in Perth until Easter weekend. I'll contact you about collection & payment then if that's ok.

Cheers

[jono]

1 for me thanks Chris

Cheers
Jono

[RobBD]

Better add my name to the list if you have one left/
Cheers Rob

[profoundly_disturbed]

Okay, some things you should be aware of....

These clamps are based on a sample obtained by boomer61.

We have no knowledge of the actual sizes required to do the job efficiently, in retrospect we should have spent some time ensuring the clamp will function as required. Sadly, our regular business gets in the way!

One of the odd things we noticed on the sample was that the M3 screw looked over long. M3 SHC Screws for this application are available in lengths of 16 and 20mm. We elected to go with 16mm to avoid fouling anything else. It may transpire that they need to be 20mm, if so we can swap them out.

So here's the deal if you take a clamp and find they don't perform we will re-make and re-supply, fair enough?

Please be aware that these items are not a commercial venture, just trying to help reduce the cost of owning a Beemer.

For what it's worth, I spoke to Auto Classic about the issue earlier in the week, they tell me in the event of a "problem" there is a cheap fix. They didn't say how cheap though.

If everyone requiring a clamp wants to wait a week we'll supply one to a guinea pig to fit during the week and if there are issues we can resolve them.

I'll be at Cats for Sunday breakfast

[profoundly_disturbed]

Screws have been swapped out for 20mm long, much improved.

If someone would like to volunteer to be the guinea pig and try one on their bike this week they can have it foc if we get feedback. PM me if you want to volunteer.

[_Wilks]

Here's a quick write-up of the fitting of Chris' clamp and replacement of the plastic quick disconnect (QD) to my HP2 which has a HPN tank fitted but retains the OEM fuel pump.

The replacement QD and fuel rated thread sealant was purchased from Munichs http://www.munichmotorcycles.com.au/pro ... ts_id=4824

Fuel pump ring removed and electricals disconnected. OEM plastic QD in place.


QD (1)disconnected and (2)removed



Chris' replacement clamp. NB: pictured correct way up.


You'll need a small Allen key and a 5.5mm socket


Clamp in place but not tightened. Tighten later.


Replacement metal QD from Munichs with thread sealant applied. Screw in hand tight, then turn approx 1/2 turn with 17mm spanner. Leave overnight.


Clamp tightened. Not super tight, just snug.


And that's it. Fired the bike up 24 hours later and no leaks, which is a great relief since the fuel was literally pouring out last time I ran the bike (boots soaked in petrol!). Since there are no signs of cracks on the flange where the QD screws in, I assume either the plastic QD failed (it wasn't loose) or the thread sealant had broken down since manufacturer assembly in 2005.

Thanks very much to Chris for going out of his way to make this clamp for club members and in particular, for allowing to me first go. Mate, I'm more than happy to pay for the clamp - I'll be shoving the cash in your hand next time I see you.

Cheers, Shane

(PS: I'm outta here for a 6,000km - 3-week ride tomorrow morning. Will check in for any questions when reception and time permits).

[_Wilks]

.

[spacey1]

As noted previously, nev is keen to buy a clamp.

Chris, can you bring one along on Sunday please.

Is Vic Park fining us yet?

[Digger]

I had my flange crack repaired by Thorsten last year...about 8,000 km ago. The bike developed that same familiar fuel leak smell during my Easter ride and i assumed it was the original repair that had failed. This was not the case. There is a seal on the fuel pump 'cap' (the large circular thingo) and Thorsten suspected the leak was from there. The bike is back on the road again with no obvious leak so it is just another thing to watch out for in relation to fuel leaks on these things. My bike has just ticked over 100,000km.
Regards

[Digger]

The bike is back on the road again with no obvious leak

Ooops...spoke to soon. The leak has reappeared so back to the drawing board...err, workshop.

[profoundly_disturbed]

The bike is back on the road again with no obvious leak

Ooops...spoke to soon. The leak has reappeared so back to the drawing board...err, workshop.

Let me know if we can assist.

[Digger]

The bike is back on the road again with no obvious leak

Ooops...spoke to soon. The leak has reappeared so back to the drawing board...err, workshop.

The leak is on the raised ridge where the outlet pipe goes into the pump. The only fix is to replace the pump...obviously an expensive option. I am riding the bike to Darwin and across to Cairns in July and although it may be alright, i do not really want to leave it unchecked. Does anyone know of any product suitable for fuel leak repairs on a plastic surface. The cracks(s) are hairlines...not visible to the eye. You only know they are there because you can see fuel leaking out.
The original repair has not failed using the clamp around the base of the flange. Any ideas are appreciated.

[profoundly_disturbed]

The bike is back on the road again with no obvious leak

Any ideas are appreciated.

How about plastic welding?

If the crack is obvious I've had success using a soldering iron.